Jewel in the crown
SCOTT CHERRY World Entertainment Writer
11/22/2002
Tulsa World (Final Home Edition), Page SPOT18 of Restaurants, Entertainment

The dining area of the Palace Cafe.
Below: Scallop bento served with bourbon onions and a brandy creme sauce.
Bottom: A 10 oz. center cut sirloin served with whipped garlic potatoes and cabernet demi-glace from the Palace Cafe.
Photos by A. CUERVO / Tulsa World

Palace Cafe boasts food with creative flair and an air of quirky trendiness
Chef James Shrader and his wife, Brooke, were driving past the intersection of 15th Street and Peoria Avenue this summer when they noticed the White Bear store had closed.

“I said, ‘Stop the car, we have to look at this,’ ” said James.

Some 90 days later, following lease negotiations and a total renovation of the space, Shrader opened his own restaurant, the Palace Cafe.

That was late October, and customers have been packing the place since. For good reason. The food shows creative flair with traditional French accents, and the atmosphere has a quirky trendiness that blends perfectly with the restaurant’s Cherry Street neighbors.

Shrader also has introduced some interesting touches. In addition to entrees and appetizers, he also offers a variety of “bentos,” one- to two-bite servings for $2 each. We tried one, a crispy shrimp-and-shiitake potsticker, that delivered a quick burst of flavor followed by a lingering heat on the tongue. In retrospect, I wish we had ordered a couple more of these little jewels.

Among the appetizers, I very much liked the fried goat cheese galette surrounded by a cherry compote ($6). The combination of tastes was flawless.

Also good was a mushroom soup ($3 cup), more light and airy than I expected it would be. The soup had bits of bacon, green onion and a dollop of creme fraiche (which improves just about anything) on top.

All of the entrees our party of seven tried were winners. I was particularly taken with the seared duck breast, uncommonly tender and with a flavor and texture that ranked it among the best duck dishes we have had the past couple of years. It was served over a nutty pilaf.

My vegetable risotto ($14) was a more workmanlike dish, but I loved it, even though the asparagus spears were nearly cooked longer than I prefer. It had a wonderful blend of fall vegetable flavors around a ring of wild mushroom slices in the thick saffron risotto.

The grilled chicken breast ($12) also was flanked by risotto, which absorbed a light ratatouille punctuated with mushrooms, zucchini and oven-roasted tomatoes that boosted the dish out of the ordinary.

Seared sea scallops ($15) also was solid choice, featuring plump scallops tossed with linguini in a Madeira cream sauce, drizzled with lobster oil and topped with frizzled leeks.

Two of the specials that night were seafood dishes, grilled salmon and mahi mahi (both $18). Both were impressive. The salmon had a bit of a salty edge to it, but otherwise both were flaky and fresh-tasting. The mahi mahi was served with a citron butter sauce and the salmon a basil cream sauce.

Salads are $4 when ordered with entrees. The Caesar was a mellow blend of traditional ingredients, and the house salad was a terrific mix of fresh mozzarella, oven-dried tomatoes, roasted onions and greens with a balsamic vinaigrette. Good focaccia bread with real butter was served throughout the dinner.

For dessert, we shared a big bowl of fresh strawberries covered with a nice, not-too-sweet Grand Marnier sauce that could become habit-forming.

Since we visited, Mandaline Perry has joined the kitchen and has expanded the dessert menu to include flourless chocolate cake, chevre cheesecake, a banana creme brulee boat, carrot cake and mocha cheesecake.

The lunch menu includes a mixture of soups, salads, sandwiches, seafood and pasta dishes. The Sunday brunch menu includes egg dishes, omelets, salads and pasta.

Shrader encourages diners who like to try a variety of dishes but don’t have the appetite for a full four-course meal to take advantage of the split plates. Customers may split an appetizer for $1.50 extra and an entree for $3, but these are more than true half portions. Shrader prepares the plates separately and adds more food to each.

Walls in this white-tablecloth restaurant are painted in a Chinese red with black trim all around. The black ceiling has exposed duct work. Backs of the booths are topped with stained glass in amber and burnt orange.

Windows look out onto both 15th Street and Peoria Avenue, and a mixture of modern light fixtures hang throughout the room.

The most striking aspect, however, is the artwork. On one wall are three pieces by Rosemary Daugherty that are part of a series she calls “Nudes and Food.” The females depicted are not nude, but scantily clad and are eating or drinking. To me they have something of an old New Yorker magazine look, and they are for sale.

On the other wall are two permanent wall graphics by Matt Moffett that have a colorful art deco design.

Some parking is available behind the restaurant off Peoria Avenue, and a few more spaces are scheduled to be added there. Otherwise, customers must use street parking.

Shrader, who was reared in Seattle, came to Tulsa in 1995 to take a position at the Back Street Bistro. His resume also includes stops at Bravo, Finales and Stonehorse Cafe.

Reservations are accepted at the Palace Cafe. Lunch hours are 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday-Friday. Dinner is 5-10 p.m. Thursday-Saturday, and Sunday brunch is 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Beginning in December, it will be open for dinner on Wednesdays also.

PALACE CAFE
1301 E. 15th St. 582-4321
Food New American
Price dinner entrees: $12 (grilled chicken breast) to $24 (8-ounce tenderloin); lunch: $5 to $15; Sunday brunch: $6 to $12
Smoking policy No smoking
Credit cards All major
Food FOUR STARS atmosphere THREE STARS service THREE AND ONE-HALF STARS (Ratings reflect the quality of the food, setting and service. One is fair, two good, three very good and four excellent.)